LE error in Daewoo washing machine: causes, diagnosis, and solution

LE and dE errors in a Daewoo washing machine: causes, diagnosis, and solution

The LE or dE error on a Daewoo washing machine usually appears when the appliance cannot confirm that the door or lid has been properly closed and securely locked. In practice, the washing machine stops as a protective measure because the electronics do not receive the expected lock signal before the wash or spin cycle begins.

On many Daewoo washing machines, these two codes refer to the same general safety problem: the door-closing or door-locking system has not been validated. The exact display can vary depending on the model, control board, and whether the appliance is a front-loading or top-loading design. On front loaders, the message is normally associated with the door and its lock; on some top-load models, it refers to the lid or the sensor that checks whether the lid is closed.

The fault has a very specific meaning, but not always a single cause. Sometimes the door is simply not properly seated. In other cases, the latch is misaligned, the rubber gasket is obstructed, the door lock is worn, or the control board does not receive the electrical confirmation that the door has locked. Moisture, a corroded contact, a damaged wire, a loose connector, or a tab warped by use can also be involved.

This is not usually a dramatic failure, but it is one of those issues that stops the washing machine just as effectively as a misaligned latch stops a train door. The appliance will not allow the motor, water filling, or spin cycle to proceed if it cannot trust the closure.

If you have a problem with your washing machine, you can use our free error code finder. From there, you can identify and fix all errors easily and effectively.

What the LE and dE codes really indicate on a Daewoo

When a Daewoo washing machine displays LE, it generally indicates a locking failure. When it displays dE, it generally indicates that the machine cannot detect or confirm that the door is properly closed or locked. In practical terms, both warnings belong to the same safety circuit and point toward the door, lid, latch, lock, wiring, or electronic control system.

On a Daewoo washing machine, the sequence is normally straightforward. The user selects a program and presses start. The appliance then checks that the access opening is closed, activates the locking mechanism, and waits for a confirmation signal. If that confirmation does not arrive within the expected time, the machine stays still, interrupts startup, or displays LE or dE on the panel.

The code is not referring to a generic washing fault or a display quirk. It is telling you that the door safety system has not confirmed the correct lock. The machine does not see the whole physical situation; it only checks whether the locking mechanism responds as expected and whether the signal reaches the control electronics correctly.

That detail matters because the error does not always mean that the part is broken. It can appear if:

• The door does not fit all the way.
• The lid is not fully closed on a top-loading model.
• Laundry presses against the gasket or door.
• A towel, cord, or garment is trapped between the door and the seal.
• The hook or latch does not engage smoothly.
• The hinge has dropped or shifted by a few millimeters.
• The lock takes longer than expected to respond.
• A connector or wire is loose, damp, or corroded.
• The electronic board is not sending or interpreting the locking signal correctly.

In a modern washing machine, the safety circuit is sensitive enough that the slightest mechanical resistance can stop the program. This sensitivity improves safety, but it also means that a small deviation in the position of the door or lid can leave the entire appliance paralyzed.

The difference between a stiff latch, a badly aligned door, and a damaged door lock determines the repair strategy. In one case, checking alignment and cleaning is enough; in another, the lock or latch needs to be replaced; and in a less common case, the wiring or control board may require technical repair. Making that distinction saves time and avoids replacing parts on instinct.

LE versus dE: are they the same fault?

Although the codes are not identical in every Daewoo model, both LE and dE are associated with the door or lid safety system. The precise interpretation can depend on the model and the firmware used by the appliance.

On some units, the display may use one code where another Daewoo or Winia-derived model uses the other. For that reason, the model-specific manual remains the final reference. However, the diagnostic logic is essentially the same: the appliance has not received a reliable confirmation that access is safely closed.

The most common causes behind the LE or dE warning

1. The door is not properly closed or aligned

The most frequent cause is as simple as a door that is not properly closed or aligned. With use, hinges can shift by a few millimeters, the rubber seal can collect lint, or a small object can become trapped at the edge. A coin, a cord, a towel, or even a garment caught between the tub and the door can prevent the latch from completing its full travel.

A door may appear closed from the outside while still failing to reach the exact position required by the safety lock. The machine does not judge the door by appearance; it checks whether the hook has engaged and whether the lock has returned a valid electrical signal.

If the door bounces back, remains slightly open, needs excessive force, or does not produce a firm click, the closure itself is the first suspect. The washing machine does not need a repair to recognize a proper close; it needs a door that fits precisely and allows the locking mechanism to complete its movement.

2. A garment or object is trapped in the gasket

The perimeter gasket deserves careful attention. A towel, sleeve, cord, sock, or other piece of clothing can become trapped between the rubber seal and the door. Even a thin item can prevent the hook from reaching the correct position.

Lint, hardened detergent residue, fibers, or a small foreign object can also build up around the front ring and latch slot. The result is a door that looks closed but does not sit firmly enough for the lock sensor to validate the start.

A dry cloth, a good light, and a few seconds of observation are often enough to find a misplaced fold, residue, or compacted lint in the engagement area. Cleaning will not repair a broken lock, but it eliminates many false warnings that might otherwise be mistaken for a larger electronic problem.

3. Hinge movement or latch misalignment

Misalignment of the lock is another common cause. The hook may look intact, but it can be slightly shifted because of hinge play, deformation, repeated slamming, or normal wear. The hinge can sag gradually, making the door sit lower than it did when the machine was new.

A drop of only a few millimeters can be enough for the latch or microswitch to miss its correct position. It is similar to a key rubbing because it is not entering a lock straight. The door may still close, but the locking mechanism is no longer operating on-center.

Pressing the door with excessive force is not a solution. Plastic components, the hinge, and the hook can react badly to pressure. If the closure is already worn, rough handling normally makes the alignment worse rather than correcting it.

4. A worn or damaged door lock

The second major suspect is the door lock, also called the door interlock or locking assembly. This component receives the lock command, physically prevents the door from opening during operation, and sends confirmation back to the electronic board.

When the internal mechanism wears out, the washing machine may try to lock and unlock several times without success. The result can appear on the panel as a persistent LE or dE, often accompanied by a faint click, an attempted start, and an immediate stop.

A worn door lock does not always fail suddenly. It often gives subtle signs first:

• The door takes longer than usual to lock.
• The washing machine waits before starting the cycle.
• The code appears only on certain programs.
• The appliance works one day but not the next.
• The lock engages intermittently.
• The warning disappears temporarily after moving or pressing the door.
• The machine makes a brief locking attempt but never completes the sequence.

Wear can affect the internal mechanism, the lock heater, or the microswitches that report the door position. The plastic housing may look completely intact while the internal electrical response has become slow or unreliable.

Heat, humidity, detergent, vibration, and frequent use all contribute to aging. Washing machines operate in a harsh environment, and the door lock may be activated hundreds of times over its service life. Like a household lock that starts needing two attempts to catch, the component can lose precision gradually until it finally stops communicating with the board.

5. Moisture, corrosion, or a loose connector

It is also important to inspect the invisible surroundings of the problem. Moisture on the contacts, slightly corroded wiring, or a loose connection in the cable harness can cause an intermittent fault.

This is the type of problem that makes the washing machine seem temperamental: it works one day and fails the next. That irregularity often points more toward an electrical signal issue than a purely mechanical failure.

The appliance may have experienced condensation, a minor leak, detergent residue, or high humidity around the control panel or door area. A connector that is not fully seated can interrupt the lock reading, meaning that the door is physically closed but the control board receives no reliable confirmation.

There may be no burnt smell, motor noise, or visible damage. The only symptom can be a firm refusal to start. If wiring is inspected, the machine must be disconnected from the mains first. Do not improvise with forced connections or bypass the safety lock.

6. The lock control circuit, triac, or electronic board

In less common cases, the fault lies in the control electronics. The board interprets the entire locking sequence and may use a triac or other lock-control component to activate the door lock.

If the control triac, a solder joint, a circuit trace, or another component deteriorates, the board may stop sending the locking command or stop recognizing the confirmation signal. The symptom can look exactly like a door that is not closed properly, even though the mechanical closure is correct.

The main board is not the first thing to suspect. It should be considered only after the door fits correctly, the lock responds or has been tested, and the wiring and connectors have been checked. When the board is involved, the problem is no longer simply mechanical; it becomes a question of whether the command is being executed and interpreted correctly.

How to tell a simple closure problem from a real breakdown

The most useful initial test starts with touch and sound. A healthy door should close firmly and offer brief resistance followed by a clear click into place. If the movement feels soft, if the latch does not fully engage, or if too much force is needed, that is an obvious clue that the latch is not seating correctly.

Next, observe whether the washing machine tries to react. In some cases, you can hear a brief hum, a sharp click, or a locking sequence that never quite completes. That pattern often points to the door lock.

If the machine closes normally but there is no attempt to lock and the warning appears immediately, the problem may be in the signal reaching the board, the door sensor, the control triac, or the electronic board itself.

A key symptom is the error repeating after several resets. If, after opening and closing the door carefully, unplugging the washing machine, and trying again, the code persists, the likelihood of a faulty contact or worn part increases.

An accidentally badly closed door is usually corrected immediately. A real fault tends to leave a more stubborn trace. If the door engages normally and the error remains even after the machine has been unplugged for a few minutes, suspicion shifts toward the lock or the electronics.

What to check before replacing parts

1. Disconnect the washing machine safely

Before inspecting the appliance, switch it off and unplug it from the electrical supply. Do not work on the door lock, wiring, or control board while the washing machine is connected to the mains.

Household electricity does not forgive forced connections. A door lock handled in a rush can make the problem worse, damage the board, or create a safety risk. The correct order is: inspect, clean, reconnect only when safe, test again, and only then consider replacing a component.

2. Open and close the door carefully

Open the door and close it again without slamming. Check whether the hook enters the lock opening cleanly and whether the door remains firmly seated. Listen for a clear click and notice whether the door needs to be lifted, pushed, or held in a particular position.

Do not press the door with excessive force. If pressing or lifting it changes the result, that is useful diagnostic information, but it does not mean that force is an acceptable permanent repair.

3. Inspect the gasket and latch area

Examine the complete perimeter of the rubber gasket, the front ring, the hook, and the lock slot. Look for:

• Trapped towels, garments, cords, or other objects.
• Lint and fibers.
• Hardened soap or detergent residue.
• A folded or displaced section of rubber.
• A bent or deformed hook.
• Plastic damage around the lock opening.
• Moisture or signs of corrosion.

Use a dry cloth to clean accessible residue. Do not pour water into the lock or insert metal objects into the mechanism. If the gasket is swollen, torn, or badly displaced, it may prevent the door from reaching the correct position even if the lock itself is functional.

4. Check the hinge and door alignment

Look at the door from the front and side. A door that has begun to sag, sit lower, or require more pressure than before may have hinge play or misalignment. The machine should be on a level floor, and the door should meet the lock without rubbing or approaching at an angle.

A washing machine that is not level can put additional stress on the door and hinge. It may seem like a minor issue, but an uneven appliance can cause the latch to engage off-center. That small deviation, repeated cycle after cycle, can eventually create false LE or dE errors.

5. Check that the washing machine is level

Verify that the appliance is stable and does not rock excessively. Adjust the feet if necessary according to the model’s instructions. A level machine reduces stress on the cabinet, hinge, door, and locking assembly.

Although leveling will not repair a broken interlock, it can correct a closure problem caused by the door approaching the lock at the wrong angle. It also helps prevent the same problem from returning after a temporary adjustment.

6. Inspect visible wiring and connectors

If there has been moisture, a small leak, condensation, or unusually high humidity around the panel, inspect only the visible wiring and connectors after disconnecting the washing machine. Look for a loose plug, signs of corrosion, damaged insulation, or a cable harness that has been pulled or pinched.

A loose connector can be enough to break communication between the door lock and the board. The washing machine does not see the expected signal and, for safety, locks itself out. This silent fault may leave no smell or obvious component damage.

Resetting the washing machine and performing basic electrical checks

Before assuming that components must be replaced, it is worth taking an electrical pause. Unplug the washing machine for 10 to 15 minutes. This helps clear residual charge from the board and rules out a temporary software or electronic lockup.

After reconnecting the appliance, select a suitable program and observe whether it recognizes the lock again without displaying LE or dE. If the problem disappears once and does not return, the original event may have been a transient reading fault.

If the code disappears but returns on the next cycle, the pattern suggests an intermittent reading problem rather than a simple stored error. Conversely, if LE or dE appears immediately and consistently, suspicion shifts toward the physical lock, the locking electronics, the wiring, or the control board.

Anyone with appropriate tool experience can check connector condition and continuity, but only with the appliance safely disconnected and with the correct technical information for that model. Continuity checks alone do not always prove that a door lock is working under operating conditions. Its internal heater, microswitches, and mechanical movement may need to be tested correctly.

Do not bypass the door interlock to force the washing machine to operate. Repeated start attempts with a closure that has not been validated can accelerate wear on the lock and add noise to the diagnosis. The sensible approach is to isolate the cause, not insist on the symptom.

The door lock: the part most often behind the warning

The door lock works like a discreet guard. It receives a signal, mechanically locks access, and confirms to the electronics that the operation can proceed. When it fails, the washing machine is left in limbo: the door appears closed from the outside, but the machine’s brain does not receive the confirmation.

That is why the appliance can remain immobilized before any water enters the drum. The lock is not just a convenience mechanism; it is part of the safety sequence that protects the user from an open door during operation.

Wear is not always visible. The plastic housing may be intact, while the internal mechanism no longer responds quickly enough. Other times the fault is in the lock heater, the microswitches, the spring mechanism, or accumulated dirt that changes the reading.

Not every faulty door lock shows dramatic signs. Many locks age silently until one day they stop communicating with the board. A delay, occasional failure, or dependence on the position of the door can be an early warning.

When the fault is confirmed, replacement is usually reasonable. The door lock is relatively accessible on many models and, compared with an electronic board, tends to be reasonably priced. On washing machines of this type, repairing or replacing the lock is often more sensible than buying a new appliance, provided there is no additional damage to the board or wiring harness.

When replacement of the door lock makes sense

Replacement becomes a logical option when:

• The door closes correctly and the gasket is clear.
• The hinge and latch are correctly aligned.
• The LE or dE code returns after a complete reset.
• The lock clicks but does not confirm the cycle.
• The fault is intermittent and becoming more frequent.
• Continuity, resistance, or model-specific tests indicate that the lock is defective.
• The wiring and connectors have been checked and are in good condition.

Always use a compatible replacement part for the exact Daewoo model. A visually similar lock may have different electrical characteristics, terminals, or mounting points. Disconnect the appliance before removing any component and follow the model-specific repair procedure.

When the problem is in the wiring, triac, or control board

If the door fits properly, the door lock responds or has been replaced without improvement, and the wiring is correct, the electronics may be reading the signal incorrectly. At that point, the LE or dE error stops being a simple door problem and becomes a data interpretation issue within the circuit.

A loose connection can interrupt the lock reading intermittently, which makes troubleshooting difficult because the machine sometimes starts and sometimes does not. The control board may also be affected by:

• A failed lock-control triac.
• A damaged solder joint.
• A deteriorated circuit trace.
• Moisture or corrosion.
• A failure in the input circuit that reads the microswitch.
• A damaged cable harness between the lock and the board.

The board interprets the entire sequence. It must send the locking command and then recognize the confirmation. If either part of the sequence fails, the appliance may display the same warning as it would for a badly closed door.

There is a clear line between a misaligned latch and a repair that requires a workshop. If the door fits properly, the door lock is replaced without improving anything, and the board still does not recognize the signal, there may be damage to the main electronics.

At that point, the repair becomes more complex. It is no longer just an access issue, but an incorrect reading or command within the control system. Diagnosis requires appropriate tools and technical judgment, especially when testing mains-related components such as the lock-control circuit.

When the LE or dE problem stops being minor

The warning stops being a minor nuisance when the washing machine does not respond at all to the closing attempt, when the lock does not engage, or when the code appears repeatedly after the basic inspection and reset.

It is also worth prioritizing a professional diagnosis if the appliance shows other strange behaviors, such as:

• Intermittent starts.
• Locking that takes too long.
• Panel blackouts.
• Unexpected resets.
• A burnt-component smell.
• Random failures in other programs.
• Unusual noises during the locking attempt.
• Repeated failure despite a properly aligned door and a new lock.

The combination of several symptoms points to a broader fault, probably linked to the board or internal connections. In those cases, forcing the machine to start is a bad idea. The appliance has already warned that the lock safety is not guaranteed, and each attempt adds stress to the affected part.

If the door closes normally but the signal does not arrive, repeating the same action a dozen times will not solve the problem. It may instead make the lock, latch, wiring, or control circuit more difficult to diagnose.

Approximate repair cost and practical sense

In terms of cost, the LE or dE error on a Daewoo washing machine usually falls within a moderate range when the source is the door lock or a door adjustment. In many workshops, the part can cost roughly 20 to 50 euros, plus labor if the repair is not done at home.

That is considerably less than a damaged electronic board. If the problem lies in the control electronics, the budget can change scale quickly. A board can push the repair to more than 100 euros, depending on the model, the exact component affected, and spare-part availability.

These figures are approximate rather than fixed prices. Labor, diagnostic fees, shipping, model-specific parts, and the availability of original or compatible components can alter the final total.

That is why it is important to identify the source of the fault before authorizing expensive work. On appliances with several years of use, the repair-or-replacement decision depends on the overall condition of the machine.

The economic logic is generally clear:

• Lock, latch, sensor, or door adjustment: repair is usually reasonable.
• Wiring or connector: repair may be worthwhile if the damage is localized.
• Main board: the decision depends on the age, condition, and value of the washing machine.

A Daewoo washing machine in good mechanical condition can continue working for years if the fault is concentrated in one locking component. By contrast, if motor, electronics, structural wear, and other failures are accumulating, repair may lose practical sense.

Special considerations for top-loading Daewoo washing machines

If the model is top-loading, the diagnostic focus changes. In that case, the warning may refer to the lid sensor, the lid hinge, a magnetic sensor, or the position mechanism that confirms that the opening is closed.

The lid must close cleanly and fully, with no bounce or excessive play. Check that no clothing, detergent residue, or foreign object is preventing the lid from reaching its correct position.

A small shift in the magnetic sensor or hinge can be enough to trigger the LE or dE code even if the rest of the washing machine is in good condition. The same three diagnostic layers still apply:

1. Mechanical: check the lid, hinge, alignment, and obstructions.
2. Electrical: check the sensor, connectors, wiring, and continuity where appropriate.
3. Electronic: check whether the board is sending and interpreting the lid-closed signal.

Do not assume that a top-loader uses exactly the same door-lock assembly as a front-loader. The visible code may be similar, but the physical safety mechanism and sensor arrangement can be different.

How to prevent LE and dE from appearing again

Prevention is not mysterious, but it does require consistent habits. The door of a washing machine suffers more than it seems: it is opened in a hurry, closed while holding laundry, exposed to steam and detergent, and subjected to small tugs that appear harmless.

The following practices help preserve the locking system:

• Close the door without slamming it.
• Check that no clothing is trapped in the gasket.
• Keep the rubber seal clean and dry.
• Remove lint and detergent residue from the latch area.
• Do not force a door that feels misaligned.
• Check the hinge when the door begins to sag.
• Avoid overloading the drum.
• Keep the machine level and stable.
• Dry the seal after washing in humid environments.
• Periodically inspect the accessible area around the lock.

It is also wise not to overload the drum. Laundry pressed against the door makes closing harder and increases pressure on the seal. On top-loading models, repeatedly slamming the lid can eventually move the sensor or hinge out of alignment.

Domestic mechanics are fragile in the details, not necessarily in the big motions. What wears components out is usually not one single force, but repetition: thousands of small impacts, misalignments, damp conditions, and attempts to close a door that is already under pressure.

In areas with high humidity or hard water, occasionally cleaning the area around the lock and drying the seal after washes helps keep the contacts stable. Detergent, lint, and condensation can form a thin but effective film that interferes with engagement.

These are small, almost invisible tasks, but they reduce false LE and dE errors and extend the useful life of the safety lock. The most annoying faults are not always the most serious; often they are the ones that keep returning because nobody looks precisely where the problem begins.

Three diagnostic layers: mechanical, electrical, and electronic

When the door seems closed but the washing machine still will not start, it is useful to think in three diagnostic layers.

Mechanical layer

This layer includes the physical fit of the door or lid, the gasket, the hook, the latch, the hinge, the lock opening, and any obstruction. A visible closure problem belongs here. Cleaning, removing trapped clothing, correcting alignment, leveling the appliance, or repairing a damaged hinge may resolve the fault.

Electrical layer

This layer includes the lock heater, microswitches, sensor, cable harness, connectors, continuity, corrosion, and the quality of the electrical signal. The door may close correctly but still fail because the confirmation signal does not reach the board.

Electronic layer

This layer includes the control board, lock-control triac, solder joints, circuit traces, and the board’s ability to send and interpret the locking command. A failure at this level requires more advanced testing and often professional intervention.

The LE or dE warning sits at the intersection of these three layers. That is why the same visible symptom can have very different solutions. In one home, cleaning and aligning the door is enough; in another, the door lock must be replaced; and in a third, the faulty component is part of the board.

The risk of oversimplifying the problem is replacing components that were still working. The best reading is straightforward: if the closure fails visibly, the problem is probably local and mechanical; if the closure seems correct but the washing machine still insists on locking itself out, the diagnosis must move toward the lock, wiring, and electronics.

What the control panel does not say

A code like LE or dE packs a lot of information into two letters, but it does not tell the whole story. The washing machine speaks in terse language, while the user notices the details: a click that was not there before, a door that needs more force, a cycle that stops only sometimes, or a lock that takes longer than normal.

Those nuances are the real map of the fault, often more useful than the digital warning itself. A proper diagnosis does not start by replacing parts. It starts by observing:

• How the door or lid closes.
• Whether the latch engages firmly.
• When the error appears.
• Whether the lock attempts to activate.
• Whether the fault depends on load state or program.
• Whether unplugging the appliance changes the behavior.
• Whether pressing or lifting the door affects the warning.
• Whether other electrical symptoms are present.

This sequence separates alignment faults from electrical ones and distinguishes a tired latch from a damaged lock. On a Daewoo washing machine, that careful reading saves money and frustration alike.

Safety logic behind the error

The door-locking system is one of the most important safety barriers in any modern washing machine. In Daewoo units, that control is not optional: it is part of the machine’s core logic and acts before the motor, water intake, or spin cycle come into play.

That is why the LE or dE error stops the cycle from the very first minute. The machine does not move if it is not sure. This protects the user, protects the drum, and protects the electronics. It also explains why a seemingly small fault can leave the entire appliance completely paralyzed.

This is not a washing fault, not a water-intake problem, and not a spin defect. It is an access lockout. If the system does not trust the closure, the washing machine will not allow the rest of the program to proceed.

Understanding this logic prevents misreading the fault. The warning is not random and should not be ignored. It is the appliance’s way of saying that something in the closure, lock confirmation, wiring, or control system does not fit the expected safety sequence.

When to call a technician

A technician should be contacted when the basic checks do not resolve the error, particularly if the code returns immediately after the washing machine has been unplugged for 10 to 15 minutes and the door or lid closes normally.

Professional diagnosis is especially advisable when:

• The lock must be tested with electrical instruments.
• The control triac or main board may be involved.
• There are signs of corrosion, moisture, or burned components.
• The appliance has panel blackouts or random resets.
• The door lock has already been replaced without solving the problem.
• The wiring requires access to internal components.
• You are not experienced with household electrical equipment.

Do not force the machine to start and do not bypass the safety system. A door that appears closed is not necessarily electrically locked, and defeating the interlock can expose the user to moving parts, water leakage, or damage to the appliance.

Final diagnosis: a small fault that should be handled precisely

The LE or dE warning does not usually signal a disaster, but it does not tolerate carelessness either. The door safety system is the switch that allows everything else to happen, and when that confirmation fails, the washing machine protects itself by stopping access.

Many cases are solved during the first visual inspection: removing trapped clothing, cleaning the gasket, correcting the door position, checking the hinge, or allowing the appliance to reset. Other cases require a door-lock replacement, wiring repair, or technical work on the control board.

The boundary between a simple adjustment and a more serious fault is repetition. If the warning returns after checking the closure, cleaning the latch area, unplugging the appliance, and trying again, improvisation is no longer advisable.

The most sensible sequence is:

1. Disconnect the washing machine safely.
2. Check the door or lid and remove any obstruction.
3. Clean the gasket, latch, and lock area.
4. Inspect alignment, hinge movement, and machine leveling.
5. Reconnect the appliance after 10 to 15 minutes.
6. Observe whether the lock attempts to engage.
7. Inspect wiring and connectors only if it is safe and appropriate to do so.
8. Test or replace the door lock when the evidence points to that component.
9. Escalate to a technician if the board, triac, or internal wiring may be involved.

Handling this code precisely prevents larger repairs. A clean closure, correct alignment, reliable electrical reading, and a door lock in good condition keep the washing machine working normally. When that balance is broken, the panel expresses it with a short signal: LE or dE, a safety barrier that is not allowing the cycle through.